I kept saying "How hard can it be?" Well, I found out. Just the anxiety level alone is probably enough justification to have a professional perform your top installation. However, if you are anything like me, and you desire the self satisfaction of doing your own restoration work, then I say "Go for it!!" As long as you dont mind a few sleepless nights figuring this out!!
One tool tip. Invest in a pneumatic, 1/2" crown stapler. You can find them on sale at Harbour Freight for about $15. Along with the stapler, you'll need 5/16" staples for the rear tacking strip--3/8" staples for the front & rear bow. Also, 9/16" staples to attach the wire on strips on top of everything else. Once installed, the top has several layers of material you have to staple through. So, different lengths are neccessary.
I realize this is not a perfect installation job. I would do it a little differently the next time around. It looks pretty good and it turned out pretty tight. It doesn't flap around or "blow up" when driving down the road. I am happy with the results and I think it really adds to the overall appearance of the car.
With a little research and patience, you can do it. This is NOT a how-to, but maybe it can help you if you are thinking about installing a new top.
Everything I read stressed the importance of the rear bow heighth relative to the top deck. Electron Top has a website with these demensions. In the case of the 49 Plymouth, it is 20-3/4" from the top of the deck. Keeping this demension consistant during the top installation is the challenge.
Once the rear bow heighth is established, the top pads were installed. The front bow should be raised a few inches before installation so when the top is closed, the corrrect amount of tension is applied. Of course, you'll need to trim the excess once in place.
Be certain to protect your deck with blankets or whatever works. It helps to remove the deck lid hinges. Just don't do what I did and absentmindedly open the trunk without the hinges.
I was so concerned about making a mistake, I think I trial fit the top at least 10 times, just to make sure everthing was fitting properly. Once you begin to staple and cut, you are committed. So, make sure things align properly. In general, install the top from back to front.
After the pads are installed, the rear window is next. Again, check the bow heighth and establish the center line of the window and the bows. Once centered side-to-side and up-and-down, the window can be stapled in place. I used some masking tape first and test fit the top before stapling.
If you install the window too low, the upper seam will not be covered as it should and will cause leaks. The bottom of the window should be at least 3.5" up from the deck.
The staple line on the top bow should be as close to the center of the tacking strip as possible. Also, the staple line needs to be straight and fit under the wire ons. Thats the only thing hiding the staples. So, be certain you staple carefuly. Draw a string tight along the tack strip and lightly mark the staple line.
Once the top goes on, a little stretching is in order. Again, the front bow is left up a few inches so when closed, a final stretch is obtained. Side-to-side and front to back. The flaps at the quarter glass can be fastened to hold things in place.
Mark the location of the snaps carefuly. I picked up the brass/chrome snaps from the local hardware store. They are easily installed with an included tool.
Trim carefuly at the attachment areas before installing the wire on moulding.
The final stretch at the front bow was performed by closing the top and locking. Then, I pulled all the wrinkles out and marked the attachment point. Then, I raised the top bow about 6", and pulled the mark 1/4" past the attachment point and stapled. Once in the closed position, the final stretch is obtained. The trim is tucked under the wire-on and the wire on is attached.
